Photo: Shahidul Hasan Roman, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Shalban Buddhist Monastery
About Shalban Buddhist Monastery
Shalban Vihara lies in the low Mainamati hills just west of Cumilla (it is filed here under Chittagong, but it is in Cumilla District). Excavations show a large, square monastery from the 7th to 8th centuries, traditionally linked to Bhavadeva of the Buddhist Deva dynasty.
The plan is easy to read on the ground: rows of small monks’ cells surround a big courtyard, with a single gateway on the north side and a cross-shaped temple in the centre. Archaeologists found terracotta plaques, bronze figures, coins and copper-plate inscriptions here, many now displayed in the Mainamati museum beside the site.
It is a peaceful place, with lawns between the brick walls and few crowds on weekdays. For living Buddhist practice today, visit the Buddhist Temple in Chittagong city. Evergreen Bangladesh Tours visits it on private tours as a stop between Dhaka and Chittagong, often together with the Maynamati War Cemetery. Before you leave the area, try rasmalai, soft cheese dumplings in sweetened milk, for which Cumilla is famous across Bangladesh.
Things to do
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Walk the monastery
Trace the rows of monks’ cells around the courtyard and climb to the central temple.
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Visit the Mainamati museum
See terracotta plaques, bronze Buddhas and other finds from the hills, right next to the site.
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Photograph the brickwork
Late afternoon light turns the old brick walls a warm red.
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Break the long drive
The site sits close to the Dhaka to Chittagong highway, an easy half-day stop.
Getting there
From Dhaka: about two to three hours by road on the Dhaka to Chittagong highway, then a short drive to Kotbari.
From Chittagong: about three to four hours by road.
From Cumilla town: around 20 minutes by car or CNG auto-rickshaw.
Where to stay
Most travellers visit on the way between Dhaka and Chittagong. If you stay, Cumilla town has simple to mid-range hotels.
More to see in Cumilla
Tours that visit Shalban Buddhist Monastery
Short Tours
Chittagong Heritage & Local Life Tour
from $200 per person
Questions
Is Shalban Vihara in Chittagong?
No. It is near Cumilla, about halfway between Dhaka and Chittagong, though it is often visited on Chittagong tours.
How old is Shalban Vihara?
It dates from around the 7th to 8th centuries.
Is it open every day?
No. Like most archaeology department sites it closes one day a week and has shorter hours on some days. Check locally.
How long should I allow?
One to two hours for the ruins and the Mainamati museum.