Bichanakandi in Gowainghat, Sylhet

Photo: Syed Sajidul Islam, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Bichhanakandi

Bichhanakandi is a stony river basin at the Indian border north of Sylhet, where streams tumble out of the Meghalaya hills into clear pools. Reached by boat, it makes a full or long half day from Sylhet.

About Bichhanakandi

Bichhanakandi lies in a fold of the border in the north of Sylhet, where several streams come down from the hills of Meghalaya and meet in a wide bed of stones. In the rainy season the hills across the border are streaked with waterfalls, and the water runs cool and clear over the rocks.

Getting there is half the experience. From the market village at the end of the road, small boats travel upriver through flat green countryside, with the hills growing larger ahead, until the stones and pools appear. Visitors wade in the shallows, sit on the rocks and enjoy the views; there is little else here, which is part of its charm.

Like Sada Pathor, Bichhanakandi has been affected by stone extraction, and the water level changes a great deal through the year, so we check conditions before you go. The scenery is similar to Jaflong but usually less crowded. In the same rainy season, Ratargul Swamp Forest is also at its best. On our private Sylhet tours the guide arranges the boat and keeps an eye on the river.

Things to do

  • Boat ride upriver

    Travel by small boat through green countryside towards the border hills, watching them rise ahead of you.

  • Stones and pools

    Wade in the clear shallow pools between the rocks where the hill streams meet.

  • Waterfall views

    In the rainy season, waterfalls stream down the Meghalaya hills just across the border.

  • Village life

    The boat passes riverside villages and fields, a quiet look at rural life in northern Sylhet.

Getting there

From Sylhet city: about an hour to an hour and a half by road to the boat landing, then roughly 45 minutes to an hour by boat, depending on the water level.

Plan ahead: road and river conditions vary by season, so we confirm the route a day or two before.

Where to stay

Stay in Sylhet city or at a tea resort nearby and visit Bichhanakandi as a day trip.

Tours that visit Bichhanakandi

Questions

When is the best time to visit Bichhanakandi?

From about June to October, when the streams are full and the hills are green with waterfalls. In winter the water is low and the boat trip can be difficult.

How long does a visit take?

Plan most of a day from Sylhet, with the drive, the boat ride each way and an hour or two at the stones.

Is it safe to swim?

After heavy rain upstream the current can be strong. Stay in shallow, calm pools and follow your guide’s advice.

How is it different from Jaflong?

The landscape is similar, with stones, clear water and border hills, but Bichhanakandi is reached by boat and is usually quieter.

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