Nine-spired Navaratna terracotta temple at Hatikumrul, Sirajganj

Photo: অভিজিৎ দাস, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Hatikumrul Noborotno Temple

An early 18th-century Hindu temple with nine towers, close to the Dhaka to Bogura highway in Sirajganj. A 30 to 45-minute stop that breaks the journey north.

About Hatikumrul Noborotno Temple

The Hatikumrul Noborotno Temple, also written Navaratna, is one of the largest temples of its kind in Bangladesh. Noborotno means nine jewels, after the nine spires that rise in tiers from its roof: four at the corners of the first storey, four on the second and one crowning the top.

It is generally dated to the early 18th century and attributed to Ramnath Bhaduri, a local revenue official of the Mughal period. The brick temple stands on a raised platform, and although much of its terracotta has worn away, panels of figures, flowers and scenes survive on the facades. A few smaller temples from the same complex stand nearby.

The temple sits in a village just off the busy Hatikumrul road junction in Ullapara, so it is easy to reach yet feels a world away from the highway traffic.

Evergreen Bangladesh Tours often stops here on private trips heading north from Dhaka across the Jamuna, on the way to Bogura and Rajshahi. With more time, the river country of Sirajganj also has handloom weaving villages and, at Shahzadpur, the Kachhari Bari where Rabindranath Tagore stayed and wrote, now a museum.

Things to do

  • See the nine spires

    Walk around the platform to see how the nine towers step up in three tiers.

  • Look for terracotta panels

    Search the walls for the surviving terracotta figures and floral designs.

  • Break the journey north

    Stretch your legs and grab tea at the roadside stalls by the Hatikumrul junction.

Getting there

From Dhaka: about 140 km via the Jamuna Bridge, around three to four hours by road depending on traffic.

From Bogura: roughly two hours south on the highway.

Where to stay

Most travellers visit on the drive between Dhaka and Bogura or Rajshahi and stay in Bogura. Sirajganj town has simple hotels if you want to explore the Jamuna riverside.

Tours that visit Hatikumrul Noborotno Temple

Questions

What does Noborotno mean?

Nine jewels, a name for temples crowned with nine spires.

How old is the temple?

It is generally dated to the early 18th century.

Can visitors go inside?

The temple is a protected monument and you mostly view it from outside. Access to the interior may be restricted.

How far is it from the highway?

Only a few minutes from the Hatikumrul junction, which makes it an easy detour.

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